More than a
thousand feet above the ground, I leaned over the edge of the great castle-fort
wall, and a mist unlike any other coated my cheek. Seconds later, a cool breeze
became a natural drying agent, chilling my skin. Beauty in
nature is an exceptional thing, something which can be neither replicated nor
surpassed. Complexity and simplicity intersect in nature, to reveal a great
treasure. This past weekend, on Sunday, in fact, I had the unique opportunity
to climb Sinhagad Fort literally, The Lion's Fort, a trekking destination in Pune that rises more than 4000 feet above sea level, and where thousands of locals and foreigners travel
each week. In a simple word, the experience was invaluable.
Sinhagad
is a unique Pune sight, both historically and for trekking-enthusiasts (and
beginners like me!). It is also significant as a historical landmark in Maharashtra. It was the site of the Battle of Sinhagad in 1670, and Shivaji Maharaj, a famous ruler from the Maratha clan, recaptured it in 1656. It was initially called Kondhana Fort.
This
is where we were headed Sunday morning. Our adventure began at 5:30 AM, when I awoke
to the sound of my older cousin’s voice. (I visited my cousin and aunt/uncle in
Kothrud this weekend). Groggily, I woke, got ready, and met his two friends on
the first floor. Initially, we decided we would search for a red bus, which,
according to my cousin, would take us directly to the historical site. We
headed left after leaving my cousin’s flat’s parking lot. After about 10
minutes of walking, we decided that the bus- despite our hopes- had probably
already left, so we began searching for a six-seater. To our dismay, the bus passed us less than 10 minutes later. :(
Regardless, six-seater-autos are
probably one of my favorite forms of transportation in India. They are large
rickshaw/autos, which technically, are supposed to seat 6 individuals (go
figure!). Needless to say, in India, the population is so large, that you can
expect it to be crowded nearly everywhere. Hence, it is no surprise then, that
the 6-seater we found, actually seated 8+ individuals. In fact, when we finally
reached the 6-seater, the middle seat was already filled with 3 individuals,
and someone had even occupied the tiny space near the driver. Thankfully, as
one individual got off at the next stop, my cousin quickly occupied his seat.
Meanwhile, me and my cousin’s two friends climbed into the back seat
(literally, this was the trunk with two boards lining the sides as the seats).
The ride there was pleasant enough- I actually enjoyed the bumpy ride, as I sat
on the wooden board, less than three feet away from my neighbor, also crouched
on the opposite board. I’m sure my cousin and his two friends obviously didn’t
feel the same sense of adventure I felt since it was really nothing new for
them.
The
trip to Sinhagad took less than a half hour, and most surprising of all, the
cost was a mere 30 rupees per person! Quite a bargain!
When
we finally arrived at the fort, we stopped for tea and took some pictures at
the foot of the hills. When I first caught sight of the scene, I was
breathless. Lush green fields rolled against the backdrop of majestic
mountains. When I looked closely at the mountains, I could spot small figures upon the slopes-
people, I guessed.
We
continued our photoshoot for another five minutes, and then began walking
towards the foot of the hills. I could see a line of cars lining the side of
the street as we made our way. Sundays during the monsoon season are the
busiest at Sinhagad, but for good reason- the views are truly spectacular!
Once
we began the climb, the actual hike took about 1.5 hours, including all of our halts en-route. Since I was obviously not as fit as my cousin and his friends, I felt
that I was always at the tail end of the group. Nevertheless, I enjoyed the
trek perhaps most genuinely.
Trekking
is clearly a common and popular pastime for “Puneri’s” (Pune residents). As early as 7:30 AM, the fort was covered with individuals,
of all ages, castes and cultures. I was surprised to find that one woman,
clearly a vegetable seller, was climbing while carrying a basket filled with
vegetables and other items. The sun danced across the sky, over the next hour,
as the three of us made our way through the altitude, climbing higher. With
each step, I felt even more energized, more enthusiastic. Even though I was
slowly being drained of energy, an equal vigor seemed to empower me,
too. Less than 45 minutes into our trek, we stopped for a “lemonade break”. The
unique thing about trekking in India, at least in Pune, is that food is readily
available on the way- in other words, it’s impossible to starve, even while
exercising! The cool drink was the perfect refresher, and when all three us had
finished our beverages, we resumed the hike.
I’ve
been to Sinhagad a number of times throughout my childhood, but each visit, I feel like I’m
enjoying a new sight. I guess that’s the unique and beautiful part of nature-
it’s always different, new and exciting. The rest of the trek seemed to go
faster- not sure if I began gaining speed or if my cousin and his friends
slowed down for me (probably the latter). Every few steps, I would take a
second to look back and catch a glimpse of the skies, mountains and mist, as if
to reward myself for making it this far with a visual treat. It really is
better to take the time to truly enjoy the journey, rather than racing to the
finish. Gradually, the trail began to steepen, and I took fewer glances
backward. Finally, when I thought that I couldn’t take another step, we began
seeing signs. I read one, “Pune Darvaza,
or Door” The gate was the first sign of an achievement- climbing to the top of
the great fort, Sinhagad, and upon seeing it, I felt a wave of real excitement.
Once
we had all reached the top, we enjoyed some yogurt and bhaji, a classic food available at Sinhagad. Bhaji is basically fried onions, adorned in various spices, and coated in flour, and the
entire dish is deep fried in oil once again. These foods are a regular at the top
of Sinhagad, and people have come to expect the treat, as a reward to climb to
the peak. After we had all had our fill of the delicious, regional food, we explored the area and
took more snaps. We saw Kalyan Darvaza, the other doorway at Sinhagad. One trail
that we followed, led, according to my cousin, to a part of Mumbai, if we kept following it!
The
view from one point was utterly and completely breathtaking. Taking one look
down, and one will see a great depth, rolling hills and beautiful hues of
evergreen; shades of navy paint the skies, and the mist gently drapes the
already spectacular panorama. I could probably have remained there all day, simply
losing myself in that picturesque scene. Nothing in life seems so clear, so
beautiful, and so perfect, than that moment as I took in the colors and trees,
mist and mountains in that scene atop Sinhagad.
Overall,
trekking on Sinhagad with my cousin and his friends was a lot of fun and a great adventure. It was really bhari (awesome). Plus it was great exercise! It was also the first time
I’ve climbed the entire fort! (there’s also a car route, which I’d taken on a
previous family trip to India).
Pictures
to come!!!
Until later! :)
This is a very well written Travelogue. You could be a contributing writer to the youth version of National Geographic.
ReplyDelete-Kris Pradeep (TARDEC, US Army)