A BitterSweet Parting With Pune

Two months seems like such a long period- I would never have thought that it would pass by this quickly! Thinking back to mid-May, I was oblivious to how my summer would take shape, what I would learn, who I would meet, and how I would change. And yet, here I am two months later. I've gained and learned a lot in this time- it's been a journey- both academic and cultural. I've met students from all backgrounds, different from my own, learned about computer programming, Raman Spectroscopy, and been spellbound by inspiring talks from renowned speakers in diverse scientific fields from global leaders. In many ways, this summer was unlike any previous one, because I had so many opportunities. IISER-Pune is truly a world class institution, and in such a vibrant place, I was able to meet well known figures- my love for science, too, has therefore grown!
Socially, the experience was unparalleled as well, having made connections with my mentors and developed nice friendships that I hope will last beyond this summer. The past couple of days were so difficult because of all of the goodbyes!
I guess all good things must come to an end...

Here is a couple group photos with my old lab and new mentor:

The Puranik Lab- minus Vishakha

Goodbye & Thanks Professor Raghav!

For the next week, I'll be internet-less, but I'll be at my grandparents- free from work, perhaps doing some (last minute) shopping, and enjoying good old home cooked food while trying my hand at cooking! It will be a nice change, and I'll be sure to value it, since I don't know when I'll be back in Pune.. But I know I'll be back, because I'm a punekar at heart.

Keep your eye out for a final post on my entire experience in Pune once I get back to the states!
Until then.....  

Sadashiv Peth

The other day, I was remiscing about my grandparents' old home in Sadashiv Peth... the Heart of Pune: 

The human mind is a vast abyss, a creative thought-box harboring secrets and stories, an intricate phenomenon. I often find it remarkable what the mind chooses to remember. Memories that we create, particularly during our formative years, are perhaps the most poignant, powerful. I wonder at the mystery of the mind, and its selective nature. Why do we revisit a few memories? Are they the most important? Are they—perhaps—challenging us to discover something new about ourselves or others?

It remains to be discovered, or perhaps it isn’t worth probing.

I often find myself reminiscing about the fun-filled childhood recollections at my grandparents’ old home in Sadashiv Peth, the real center of Pune. The home was special for many reasons, not only because I spent childhood trips to India there, but also because the home itself had a unique character to it. In its exterior, it was a simple home- nothing too distinct. It wasn’t large or exquisite, and it certainly wasn’t a three story palace. It had a kitchen, one large living room, bathroom, and gacchi- just like any typical home or apartment. But it was different.

 I remember playing in the living room with my younger brother, the winter I turned 9, the small hallway leading to the main room. First impressions are often powerful, and my initial memories of the house are of the massive entrance- there was a wiry, fence-gating the way into the home. After being welcomed in by the powerful bark of the family golden lab, we would enter the guestroom, which gave way to a  gathering room connected by a passageway with two blackish-gray iron windows with bars to the outside world. 
The windows -- they were my favorite place in the home. Standing on the pillars to see the outside world seemed so adventurous at the time, and I remember feeling as if I could leap or fly, when swinging before the bars on the window. My imagination defined my life at the time- play took precedence over logic. At different points during the day, the same barred window that was a window into the outside world transformed into a magic mirror, or a jail- sometimes it became part of a story, the backdrop for a unique drama- By the day’s close, it had turned back into a normal window.

My cousins and aunts recount similar stories of the home, reminiscing about the childhood memories, studying in small corners jutting from the wall, or playing on the gacchi, which was an awesome playroom-turned-garden-turned bedroom. It engaged imaginations, that house- it fostered creativity.  To anyone, a child in particular, there was so much to explore there - from the roof, to the staircase, the enclosed dark, hidden room just past the kitchen that led to the balcony overlooking a serene backyard. Any room in the house had a different feel to it, a unique character. It certainly wasn't a normal home.
 I marvel at how vivid memories I have of that house, of playing in areas where my father must have played in his youth. I hardly spent time there- a handful of summers for a few weeks at a time. And yet, I feel a strong connection to the place- I attribute the fascination to the stories my family members have told me about it. Perhaps my imagination has illuminated it as a magnificent landmark, or a vacation house- somewhere worth remembering. Images of the large home, a place my entire family remembers and loved, will probably remain etched in my memory forever.  

It's Pune. :)

I’ve come to the conclusion that my grandparents’ old home in Sadashiv Peth was special for a multitude of reasons- perhaps most poignantly, it is because it’s where my father and his siblings grew up. It’s the place of so many memories, of so much action, of so many stories. It’s the site of hundreds of Jalukar family gatherings, a meeting spot, a community gathering area. Due to its central location, my grandparents often housed visitors- both family and friends passing through Pune for events, or who came to the city to seek an education. In this case, there were so many different individuals visiting the home, and I find it so amazing that each of these people, no matter their background, education or personalities, stayed in this home, whether for a night, week or years, and left a piece from their stories before leaving. Our abode in Sadashiv Peth was a real community haven. It was a retreat, a hospitable place, a comforting refuge for travelers and natives alike.

 People say that those living in Sadashiv Peth call themselves true Punekars, as if living in the city’s center makes them truer or more genuine inhabitants. Regardless, there is a certain pride associated with being from the heart of a city so vibrant. Maybe it was my father’s pride, but I too share some of this emotion. My grandparents no longer live in that house in Sadashiv Peth. It was provided to employees of Pune Vidyarthi Griha, a school for orphons where my grandfather tirelessly and passionately worked as a schoolteacher for decades, 50+ years. Though our family now has no real connection to the home, nor to Sadashiv Peth itself, I guess I can revisit the home in my memories, run through that gacchi once more, pick a mango from the tree planted just behind the yard, and descend the massive staircase to Laxmi Road and Saras Baag, into the heart of Pune, my family's second home. 

Research Updates: Getting There with the Data Processing

So, in all my excitement in sharing my trip to Mumbai, I completely overlooked providing updates to my research! Work in the lab is going well.. monotonous work, slow but steady. I'm currently using MatLab to characterize the spectrograms of songs sung by deafened and normal Zebra Finches (a type of song bird) early in their song development. After I am through with the data analysis (literally, number crunching/monotonous work), we will examine any structural and pattern differences in both groups- deafened and normal birds- in number of introductory notes (INs) and use previous background research to be able to make a judgement about the meaning and significance of the data. The concept of being able to see tangible results, though this means using MatLab for hours on end, is a powerful motivation, and I'm excited to be able to link the understanding I have of song development and the role of IN's in them, to the data through analysis.
Check out this cool image of a spectrograph- the varying color intensities represent the frequencies of the sound!



Between data processing and working on my final report (which will be due next week), I have also been enjoying my last couple weeks on the IISER campus. The college seems significantly emptier/ less crowded. By now, many of the project students I had grown accustomed to meeting and seeing around the mess hall and hostel after work, have finished their projects and left. Some of the interns have also wrapped up their projects. I really can't believe it, but I'll be done in a week or so, as well- time is really flying by! I guess all I can do is make the most of these last few weeks, before I head home.
Another update is that next week, I will have the opportunity to attend another conference- the Annual Biology Talks, in which all of the biology professors at IISER will present their research work. In many ways, I find it amusing that conferences have been the introduction and (will be) the conclusion of my stay here. Perhaps you can view it as a circle-of-life/ cycle type thing. I'm really looking forward to the experience, though- the talks will begin Monday morning.
In the mean time, tomorrow BS-MS students will also begin pouring in, so hopefully this will liven the campus up a bit in the next few days!
Other than that, not much is new. I will certainly share more updates on my research work as results become clearer, and I gain a more complete understanding of the final conclusions. 

Wanderlust: Cinematic Train Adventures & Photos - Part II

(Continued)...

Seeing VT station was also quite the experience- though it was very overwhelming at first. A massive crowd, which reminded me of a frantic and crazed group, blocked the entrance to the building. It took us a while to navigate through the mob, the three of us sticking together for safety. I realized that this was only the beginning of the craziness, and as we entered the station, I saw a gigantic maze before me. Groups sprinting across the central area, people pushing to get through- everywhere had somewhere to go, and the rush was insane! After a lot of confusion, and quite a bit of (unsuccessful) inquiries in Marathi (I guess that's what happens when only one person of the group speaks "Marathi") we realized that we had two choices: we could leave by the 5:45 train, which was leaving in less than ten minutes, or we could wait for the Mahalaxmi train, departing at 9. Quickly, we decided that if the journey was to take four hours, it would probably be best to leave earlier, so we re-joined the line. The clock ticked, and each minute made us even more impatient, and quite frankly, stressed. I was almost at the last straw, when my number came. By this time, I was overwhelmed, tired, and frustrated at the apparent lack of infrastructure at one of the most famous and historical Indian railway stations. My emotions must have trailed through to the officer, and he seemed to mellow a bit, finally issuing me three regular section tickets (for me, Siddharth and Nick). Before I could think, I slapped 150 rupees down on the counter, grabbed the tickets, and the three of us literally sprinted to the opposite end of the station. The train was preparing its departure- the wheels beginning to turn, squeaking, as we approached, nearly panting from the short jog. The adrenaline rush was enough to excite me, and I jumped onto the train, not knowing if this was the regular section or another part of the train. Later, we discovered that we had entered the wrong side of the train (not surprising?) , and so, we spent the next half hour walking throughout the train, touring the entire vehicle, in search of our seats. We crossed the gap between the train cars multiple times. After a while, it seemed like we were just running with no destination- I never realized the regular section was so far! Such a "train scene" is common in hindi films, especially those from the 90’s (Kuch Kuch Hota Hai, DDLJ, etc.), and I felt that the experience was right out of a film! 

After a while of walking, without luck, we ran into a dead end, perhaps where some large bags of flour were stored, and decided to halt in between two buggies. For a while, we stayed in the small cramped area. An open doorway provided a window into the outside world, and for a good thirty minutes, we all were lost in thought, rocking to the beat of the train’s wheels on the tracks below. The scenery illuminated the world passing by. I treasured this experience so much. The sheer bliss of being there, watching the world go by, seeing the scenery speed by, was awesome. At the next stop, we decided to take our chances (risk getting caught by the train inspector) and find seats in the sleeper section. So, we left our comfortable "home" with a view and resumed the run through the train -- this time, in the opposite direction. Eventually, after a lot of searching, we ended up finding seats in the train, and (shh!!) bribed the train officer to upgrade our tickets to the sleeper class. This is possibly my favorite section of the train, however. The sleeper section is composed of a number of “bunk-bed” style seats. Of course, the child in me had to climb to the top bunk! Once we occupied our seats- Siddharth and me on the top bunk, and Nick claiming the "bed" below us- we calmed down and relaxed, making small talk with our neighbors. I tried my hand at Marathi, beaming when I could compose a few comprehensible sentences. The chai-wallah became my savior. Slowly, after tea, other merchandise-sellers emerged. Before long, in fact, the narrow hallway between the bunk beds, transformed into a mini-market. In that next half hour, in fact, I was amazed to find men selling hot dinners, ranging from rice and chappati to warm vegetables and snacks. Drinks were also available. Clothing sellers also brought out stock, and jewellery and toys were being sold, too.

"Garam Garam Bhaji Poli, Biriyani, patkan patkan ghya!" became a familiar and repetitive cry. 

(Get hot vegetables, roti and rice!)

The three hour journey truly sped by (literally and figuratively). Along the course of the route, we met a young engineer originally from Pune, who, we later discovered, regularly travelled to Mumbai to monitor his business based in Mumbai, which provides a consulting service to schools, companies and institutions of higher education for various technologies, including mobile app alerts for schools, and computer programs. Small talk turned into quite a thought-provoking discussion on the pros/cons of remaining in India long-term. In today’s economy, educated individuals- most significantly those with an engineering and MBA background- are flocking abroad in large numbers- going abroad may be the quickest route to success and money. The boy we met was saying that despite the fact that many of his own family members and close friends had travelled abroad (to the states and Europe) for jobs, he had chosen to stay back, most prominently because of family reasons. Ultimately, leaving India may be quite attractive from a financial perspective, but it also means giving up a lot in terms of family, friends and culture.

One of the many reasons I love train rides, is because they provide a unique platform for meeting people, sparking conversations and, sometimes creative thought. Everyone in a train has places to go, people to visit, ideas to share- stories to tell. Meeting people and hearing their stories is an unparalleled experience. I probably will never meet the people I met in that Mumbai to Pune train again, but we still shared meaningful conversations, if only for those few hours. It may have been just to pass the time, the three hours when we were all travelers, all on a journey, no matter how short, but we connected and learned something new about the world and about eachother. The Mumbai-to-Pune trip was memorable. Yes, you could say that I'm a train lover, now!

The day trip to Mumbai was certainly action-packed, but it was really unforgettable- every moment.

Now, to get a better taste of all that I experienced, check out some photos. Enjoy, and thanks for reading (if you made it this far!) :) 

 

Mumbai Photo Gallery---

The Taj Hotel...

Couldn't get to the gateway this way!

The Gateway of India!!! (I feel like such a tourist)

From the ferry to Elephanta Island

Boats or other Ferries

Quite Breathtaking view of the Seaside Mountains

Mini-Train Ride on Elephanta Island

At a Small Bazaar During the Hike up to the Caves

:D

This guy

Official Entrance to the Caves!

The First Cave

Incredible Carving of Shiva Performing Celestial Dance-

Nataraja

The most famous carving of the great Shiva!

Small Courtyard between Caves

Monsoon Beauty

More Carvings in Cave # 2

Random Lion? :)

I blame flash for the weird coloring.. but cool!

Genuinely incredible views... India never ceases to Amaze :)

Reminds me of Stonehenge.. Random Stone Gazebo-like place

The Path less travelled

Exquisitely Green

Back to the Gateway!

Bombay Central.. Exploring the Architecture

Chatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Museum Gate

Goodbye Mumbai....

Wanderlust: Through the Money Capital of India- Part I

Before I jump into the countless adventures and stories I have to tell, I want to explain the absence of any posts these past two weeks. Unfortunately, two weeks ago, I caught the traveler's most dreaded illness- the stomach flu. If you have ever been to India during the Monsoon season, you would be able to understand my pain, as if being sick isn't bad enough, feeling ill in a foreign country is even worse. Thankfully, my family was able to help me a lot! It really helps to have my grandparents and all my aunts and uncles in Pune in such times, and words can't explain how grateful I am for all of their TLC.
In any case, it took a couple weeks for me to fully recover, but that also meant that it threw off my schedule, as well. This past week has been much better. I've adjusted back to my work schedule too, though I'm scrambling now to finish data analysis, as I only have two weeks remaining to wrap up my research project and submit my final report. As I have been getting back to my old schedule, I'm realizing that I only have a few more weeks left in this beautiful country I want to call home. Before I get too sentimental (let's save that for my last post!), let me transition into the real substance of my post today, my adventure in Mumbai.
This past weekend, I traveled to Mumbai, the financial capital of India, with two travel buddies, fellow Khorana/Bose Scholar Interns. What was initially supposed to be a two-day trip somehow became a hectic one-day excursion through the city and Elephanta Caves. But I can't complain. You only get one life to live, and this experience was truly once in a lifetime. 
And now, without any further ado, more on my trip to Mumbai. And you might also want to prepare for the overdose of pictures following the description!!! :)

I see my path, but I don't know where it leads. Not knowing where I'm going is what inspires me to travel it. -- Anonymous Quote (Photo Credit- Hyderabad Train; Google)

 

            The rhythmic sound of the train presented itself as a harmonious form of onomatopoeia, paradoxically lulling me and exciting me all at once. Nearly pulsating, the train travelled over the coarse tracks obviously worn from the hundreds of trains and buggies crossing it daily- perhaps even hourly. It meandered its way through a path carved out of a magnificent forest- it seemed. Along with my two travel buddies, fellow research interns, Siddharth and Nick, I gazed, seemingly purposefully, out of the cracked, cheap, broken metallic door of the Mahalaxmi Train. It was as if I were intent on seeing something magnificent in the blurred wilderness beyond the limits of the train. We were so close, yet so far, from what lay before us. As I gazed outward, I was reminded of the simple beauty of travel, and what it means: It means movement, literally, going from point A to point B, but in reality something incredibly empowering and complex; travelling is progress, it is a journey. A thought that crossed my mind as the train rocked those tracks was a realization that the world is so vast, that we should slow down to enjoy it. At some point while I was gazing through the door, and then opening the train doors to see the outdoors more clearly, I wished that the train would slow- instead it gradually picked up speed. Despite the fact that I wished the train would slow down, another part of me – perhaps the part that was tired from the action-packed day- was mind-numbingly staring through the doors, lost in thought, and finding solace in the sight of the passing blur of bright colors and rain. Regardless, it was a memorable treat, to see the world whiz by, on a vibrating vehicle.

This was on the way back from Mumbai to Pune- after an exhilarating, tiring and unforgettable adventure in the financial capital of India- Mumbai. (This is where I travelled this past Saturday). At that moment, however, all three of us had seemingly suppressed all our energy that had built over the course of the day- so it would seem- to inhale, take in, imbibe that moment in the train- travelling over a path we might never again traverse, experiencing something so unique and beautiful- a travel experience by train.  This may have been the close of our trip to Mumbai, but it was perhaps the most memorable and poignant events from my Saturday.

            Each part of my day trip to Mumbai was equally exhilarating, if in a different way. Though words may not do it justice, I will try to capture my whole experience in this post. But, you are completely free (and encouraged!) to explore the pictures enclosed below to gain a clearer idea of Mumbai’s uniqueness- a picture is worth a thousand words, after all. :)

            The day began on a melancholy note. It was raining heavily, as it is often these days – it’s the middle of the monsoon now! The plan was that I would meet with Siddharth and Nick at 5 AM. Naturally, I shouldn’t have been surprised that this was an impossible expectation. We ended up passing IISER’s tall iron gates just past six thirty, as the golden globe of the sun had just emerged above the plain ground- Pashan Rd., for once, silent and peaceful (this is indeed a rarity in India!) For almost a half hour afterward, we all trudged through puddles, seemingly hopelessly walking through the darkness. Our mission? Find a rickshaw to get us to the Shivneri Bus Station! Just the day before, Medha Atya had told me about a luxury bus- Shivneri- that would transport us to Dadar, a region/suburb within Mumbai. With our bad luck, however, we continued walking toward the main road for another 20 minutes. When we thought there couldn’t possibly be any Rickshaw driver awake at this hour, a few began passing us. After a number of attempts, a Rickshaw wallah kaka finally turned toward us, and after a bit of convincing, agreed to allow the three of us ‘grown adults’ to squeeze in- mind you, three (actually four!) little youngsters were already seated in the corner, hitching a ride to school.

Adventure # 1

I’ve been in a rickshaw with three other people, four others, even five (max, when one individual joins the driver in the front seat!). But never in my life have I been in a rickshaw with six other people. That morning, our threesome joined four children on their way to school. The experience, though incredibly uncomfortable, was a first of many reminders of India’s crowding issue- apparently, it permeates to all areas and places! We all miraculously made it out alive, (including the children) and thankfully (my luck must have been picking up!) we reached the stop just in time, to meet an energetic crowd, mixed in age and occupation, impatiently awaiting the blue bus’s arrival.

By 7:30, we were en route to Mumbai- a place that I’d been hoping to visit for weeks. Although it is the capital of Maharashtra, Mumbai is considered unsafe for many locals within Maharashtra. It was no wonder, then, that my Punekar family, especially my aunt, Medha Atya, kept tabs on us throughout the day- the first of which was in the form of a phone call when we had reached the halfway point in our ride to the city.

            The bus ride to Mumbai was dull and dreary- but part of this may have been because we were all half asleep throughout the journey. The driver must have taken the scenic route, as we passed through a beautiful stretch of mountains. As I drifted in and out of a dream-like state, I caught glimpses of  the evergreen and blue hues, the raindrops and mist nearly perfecting the view. Slowly, we spiraled upwards into the altitude of the Maharashtran mountaintops. The entire bumpy trip took nearly 3.5 hours, and before long, I awoke, rather unwillingly, to the sound of beeping horns, congested traffic and random shouting- the clearest clue that we had arrived at our destination!!

            Once the three of us had safely descended the stairs, we flagged a taxi, and travelled directly to our first of a number of sights for the day – the Gateway of India. As the taxi cab slowed, pulling over to the side of the road, I was a bit unsure of where the great gate was, but we followed the windy path to the entrance on the back-side, and finally caught sight of the masterpiece. The gateway towered over us, as we approached it from the opposite side. It’s magnificance was quite overwhelming at first, and we all (If I can speak for my travel buddies too!) were in awe of it. I felt like a complete tourist, but I couldn’t help but take few typical pics before the landmark.

Just before we finished our photo shoot, we heard one of the many tour guides circling the Gateway gathering a group to see “Elephanta Caves,” and quickly wrapped up and joined them, since this was on the tentative list of things to see in Mumbai, as of that morning. Again, we made the ferry leaving to the island just in time.

The ferry ride to the caves was quite pleasant. By this time, much to my own amusement, we had already taken four forms of transportation- Rickshaw, Bus, Cab & now--  Ferry! The waves were quite rough, and we couldn’t seem to avoid the rain, but regardless, I took everything as a unique adventure, enjoying every moment of the 7-mile-long route through the turbulent waves. Nearly 80 minutes later, we stepped off onto the shores, eager and excited to explore our first historical destination of the day.

More than a thousand years ago, these collection of seven caves were carved out of stone on Gharapuri Island. The cave complex includes seven caves (two of which are unfinished/remnants), containing carvings of a range of Hindu gods and goddess, most prominently highlighting the three key figures: Shiva, Brahma and Lord Vishnu. The mini-trek to the caves, about a mile from the dock, brought us through a small bazaar area, with a multitude of trinkets, cloths and pieces of unique décor available for sale. My challenge was to avoid the shopping until after we had seen the main site… We continued ascending the steps to the caves, and finally arrived nearly twenty minutes later. As I stepped onto the gravel, I felt a strange combination of awe and bewilderment- the concept that men had carved such intricate, beautiful and honestly, amazing creations out of simple rock with so little technology available is truly a mindboggling feat. We set out respectively exploring the caves, planning how we would see them systematically at first, but ultimately exploring the area. When I got to the first cave, I was honestly speechless by amazement. Plastered across the bare rock walls of the stone cave were 3-D stone creations of hindu gods. The most spectacular one was perhaps the one of Brahma, the creater of the universe. One look at the figure, and you will feel a strength, a power so great that it’s overwhelming. The courtyard between the caves also had a distinct feel to it. It was rustic and historical, the scene reminiscent of a simpler time long ago.

Beyond the caves, I couldn’t help but appreciate the surrounding rolling hills and scenery. I just can’t seem to get enough of how beautiful Maharashtra is during the monsoon. One of the many things I will miss most about my mother country is the genuinely breathtaking beauty everywhere I look- the wind, the skies, the evergreen and navy hues blending perfectly, revealing nature’s perfection- it just quadruples the thrill of travelling.

We spent the next hour venturing in and out of four of the caves (two finished masterpieces, and one unfinished creation), gazing in complete awe at the perfection of the stone carvings. I stopped in one cave to take “darshan” at a small temple-like area. Viewing a murti, a representation of god, can be so invigorating.

The time flew by as we toured the island in all its beauty and historic charm. Before long, we were descending the steps, hurrying to catch the 1:30 PM ferry back to Mumbai mainland. A frivolous monkey followed us on the way back for a bit, entertaining us with his mischievously playful movements and energy. I wished he would have joined us on the ride back J

It was nearly 3:00 by the time we returned to the Gateway area, and though we were a bit tired from exploring the caves, we decided to take a few more pictures, and walk around the area, slowly making our way through Bombay Central to VT train station so that we could reserve tickets for our return journey. Agreeing on this plan, we leisurely made our way toward the train station, one of the largest train stations in India. As we crossed the central city, we passed by a number of buildings reminiscent of British India. The beauty of the architecture during this period is distinct, with gothic monuments and cathedrals. We also passed Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj museum- I couldn’t help but simply appreciate the charming architecture! It was a unique opportunity to tour it, indeed. The walk to the station was long and winded, and we were all surprised to find that it was nearly 5 by the time we reached!

---> See Part II for my "Train Adventure" & the promised overdose of pictures!

A Glass Half Full

It’s been four days since my birth country’s independence day, and I am in India – performing research in my mother country, embracing my heritage, and wondering how a month has already passed by since I first arrived in India. To my utter bewilderment, this date marks my half way point as a Khorana Scholar, and I therefore saw it fitting that I devote this blog post to reflecting on my academic and cultural learnings and struggles- an evaluation of my experience thus far, at the end of the sixth week. 

This past week on Monday-Wednesday, the Palkhi, a religious pilgrimage honoring two Indian saints, Sant. Tukaram Maharaj and Sant. Dnyaneshwar Maharaj, passed through Pune. It was a HUGE procession, featuring thousands of devotees, and a beautifully adorned chariot for the murti or small statue of the figure. Roads across Pune were closed! To make this long, rather bland, post more visually appealing, check out this picture  of the palkhi. Though I didn't dare venture into the streets, to see it, I saw much of the remnants of this large-scale event in the heart of Pune. I also really enjoyed viewing it on TV! Maybe someday next time I visit India I'll actually check it out- maybe walk in it ??!! 

Palkhi in Pune; July 2 2013 (Google)

I always highlight and ponder over my cultural insights on India, leaving less space for my academic learnings- which is, actually, the main reason for my visit to India! My experience in a research environment in another nation has been a roller-coaster, in all honesty. It’s been a challenge to immerse myself in a different culture and a new lab atmosphere, all at once.

In many ways, my experience as a research intern in India has been exciting and honestly, refreshing- especially being able to work on a different schedule (from in the states), meeting new people and hearing unique perspectives both on science and culture. Through other angles, yet, the experience has been a bit disappointing and challenging, as well. Let's view my internship in India as a glass half full.

 There are various aspects of Indian labs, which distinguish them from equivalent American labs. First, and foremost, is the lab culture. Inscribed within Indian cultural norms is a unique laid-back attitude. I learned, during my first week in the lab, for instance, that there are nearly 3-4 tea breaks in one workday. It seemed like I was in the canteen more than in the lab! After a few days, however, I realized that tea breaks, like many other things, are normal, expected, and thus, should be celebrated as part of the lab culture. Besides, I’ve found, after a few hours of monotonous work, it can be revitalizing and exciting to chat over chai.

In regards to academic research, my experience working in IISER-Pune so far has been, in my eyes, comparable to that at many high-tech American institutions. My first three weeks, I worked at a bio-photonics lab. The wet-lab contained a high-quality Raman Spectroscope, safety materials and supplies. The main issue I saw was space. Granted, the lab was in the late stages of moving to a newer facility, but the machinery, technology, etc. seemed to be especially crowded, as compared to a similar lab in U.S. Another difference I’ve noticed between Indian and U.S. labs, or lab personnel, more particularly, is the extremely helpful/cooperative culture. For instance, especially in my old lab, my mentors were extremely courteous and enthusiastic about sharing their knowledge-being students themselves. Though I know IISER-Pune is an extremely cut throat and intense institution, it also appears that there is a flip side to this competitive spirit, and a general sense of cooperation within the lab community. Of course, this may simply be my naïve observance.  

Since working in my new lab, I have not gotten any “hands on” experience, as I had initially desired. My new research, as stated earlier, is to characterize zebra finch songs, using MatLab and sonograms to visualize the songs. The production of song parallels movement production in humans. On the neurological level, neurons fire a different pattern before producing notes of the actual song, showing that it takes time to orient itself or prime itself. Eventually, we wish to use this knowledge to understand how the brain uses introductory notes as a preparatory mechanism, and what this shows about movement control in humans. My specific project is also coming to shape. It will involve using MatLab to visualize songs of normal and deafened zebra finches (deafened early in development) and understand the difference in the pattern of introductory notes (IN) in these two groups.

Learning MatLab has been an interesting exercise in itself, but soon, once I become comfortable with the computer program, I will shift into data analysis- actual "work".  
Looking over my entire experience in India so far, I would say that it has been fulfilling, reinvigorating and - in a way - reaffirming. Simply being in India is valuable, so close to my family, culture, beauty and nature. I've learned a lot both in and outside of the lab, and I can't wait to see what the next weeks bring! Though I also can't bear the thought that I only have 5 weeks left in India :'C 

When I’m not in the lab, I have also began a short hospital visitation program at KEM Hospital, a large, private hospital in Pune, Maharashtra. For the first time last week, I was able to shadow physicians in the Neonatal Intensive Care Unit. Over the coming 3 weeks, I will be able to rotate through different departments within the Pediatric ward of the hospital, and hopefully, gain insight into the differences between the Indian and U.S. Medical Systems. Perhaps one of the more exciting parts of this experience, will be the opportunity to visit the Vadu Project, which is a unique hospital providing health to rural Maharashtra in Vadu. 

KEM Hospital, Raasta Peth, Pune, Maharashtra (Google)

Check out their efforts: http://www.kemhospital.org/vadu.html

More on my experience in the NICU and the Hospital: 

The NICU

This past Friday, I was able to begin a hospital visitation program at KEM Hospital, in Raasta Peth Pune, Maharashtra. This is a large, Non-Government Owned teaching hospital. Immediately as I entered the 550-bed institution, I saw crowds scattered throughout. There really isn't any "uncrowded" place in India. Seeing KEM Hospital this past Friday (and Saturday) was a new experience for me. When imagining a health clinic or hospital, especially one as large-scale as the KEM Hospital, one doesn’t imagine an airy, open, humid, crowded & dusty institution, with hundreds of ill individuals, children, and crowds filling the space. Yet, this is what one of the largest and best Maharashtrian Hospitals looks like.

When I entered the NICU Unit, where I was to meet Dr. Vaidya, my  direct supervisor for this program, I couldn't predict how I would react to such a dire situation. As I stepped into the sanitized, dust-free, room, a weird smell, a mix of formaldehyde and bleach met me. My eyes spun around the room, seeing tiny, helpless, almost-plastic-looking creatures- babies who had recently been brought into a world full of intensive care machines, white-jacketed physicians, prescription medications. Their tiny glassy eyes had only seen the gray scale of the hospital room, and experienced a shock seemingly to great for their small bodies to bear. Internally, for a moment, I gasped, the scene was too much to take in, and I felt suffocated, despite the fact that I was the one observing. For some time, I concentrated on the marble tiled flooring, hoping that it would shield my sight from what was around me- but it didn’t. Minutes later, I finally glanced upward, my gaze falling on a small infant, smothered in clear tubes, wires, units and pads. I’m not sure how I will cope with the NICU, but my first impression was not what I had expected it to be. Dr. Vaidya told me, minutes into registration, that the world is full of injustices, and I’ll be able to learn about them, over the next few weeks at KEM.